Pies and Tarts
Ingrid Gulliksen
Juice Bar Staff

No offense to cake, but pie has always seemed to me to have a warm and cozy kitchen table kind of friendliness about it. “As American as apple pie” is not just an expression, it’s also a fact: apple is the most popular variety of pie in this country. Pie even has its very own holiday: January 23rd is National Pie Day. Almost everyone likes pie, and I once knew someone who loved pie so much that each year he insisted on a birthday pie, complete with candles! I treasure happy childhood memories of my mother’s tangy-sweet lemon pie, topped with mounds of delicately browned white meringue; somehow this special treat always seemed exotic and yet homey at the same time! No matter how elaborately woven the lattice-top crust or how amazingly high the meringue topping, even the fanciest of pies does not require a special occasion to be served and savored.

History
It is generally believed that pie pastry originated in ancient Greece. When the Romans conquered Greece, one of the spoils of war was pie pastry recipes. These recipes were in turn brought to the various European cultures by the conquering Romans. Each country that fell under the Romans’ influence introduced pie pastry into their individual cuisine and adapted it to their own particular foods and customs. The Pilgrims brought pie recipes, both sweet and savory, from England to the American colonies, adapting their recipes to the foods available to them in their new homeland. As America grew in size and ethnicity, our pie recipes naturally multiplied and reflected our diversity of cultures and cuisines. Pie seems to be woven into the fabric of American life and customs: cool blueberry, peach, and cherry pies of sultry summer afternoon picnics; steaming, savory pot pies and warm apple pies of crisp, chill autumn days; and pumpkin and mince pies of Thanksgiving and winter celebrations. Each is uniquely delicious in its own way and each is a part of our heritage and traditions.

Tips, Techniques and Terminology
Although pie is much loved, pie crust making is also sometimes much feared! Baking a pie and especially the crust is really just a matter of “practice makes perfect.” In a way it’s no different from learning to drive a car, ride a bicycle, or ice skate. Expect to make mistakes at first, and learn from them.

The first pie that I made entirely from scratch, including the crust, was a pumpkin pie that I brought as a surprise gift to my mother’s Thanksgiving dinner. I used a traditional recipe in a basic, all-purpose cookbook (such as Betty Crocker or Better Homes and Gardens) and followed the precise directions exactly, totally focusing on the task at hand: no distractions, no interruptions. My pie turned out absolutely perfect! This success, I’m sure, was due to my exact following of the very clear instructions, along with a little bit of “beginner’s luck.” But I believe it was also partly due to the fact that, because my pie was to be a surprise, I didn’t feel pressured. I was able to relax and enjoy the creativity, and if it flopped, no one needed to know! So maybe the most important rule of all for first-time pie bakers and pie crust makers is relax…and if necessary, have a backup plan just in case!

A good, reliable cookbook, preferably one with illustrations, is worth its weight in gold to the novice baker. Other helpful sources of information are those in the baking profession, as well as friends and family who are experienced bakers. Here are Martha Stewart’s eight golden rules for perfect pies and tarts:

1) All ingredients for pastry must be ice-cold.

2) The pastry must be made very quickly, the entire process taking no more than 45 seconds, most easily done by using a food processor.

3) Chill the pastry thoroughly before rolling it out.

4) Crusts should be rolled quickly and evenly with a minimum of flour, using a soft-bristle brush to remove excess flour.

5) Fruit pies must be baked in a hot, preheated oven to ensure well-done fruit, brown and flaky crusts, and thick juices. The juices in the center of the pie must bubble before the pie is actually done.

6) Completely bake pastry shells that are to be filled with a prepared filling. Partially bake shells when some or all of the filling is to be baked in the shell.

7) Fillings for pies and tarts are best when freshly prepared. Perfect fruit should be used, whether it is to be baked or used uncooked.

8) Glazes are to be used as adornment, not as cover-ups for inferior fillings.

Pies vs. Tarts
Although pie pastry and tart pastry do contain some of the same ingredients, they are distinctly different mixtures that produce distinctly different results: A basic pie pastry consists of flour, salt, solid vegetable shortening (or less commonly nowadays, lard) and cold water. This combination is intended to yield a crisp and flaky crust, and can be used in the preparation of both sweet pies and savory pies. A basic tart pastry is made up of flour, sugar, salt, unsalted butter, and cold water, ideally producing a firm and crumbly crust. Tarts were once thought of as small, individual-serving-size pies, generally prepared with a bottom crust only, but today these are considered to be tartlets. A tart is now defined as a large pastry baked in a special pan with a removable bottom. The tart is then unmolded from its baking pan before serving.

Crumb Crusts
Although pie crust made from the basic pie pastry recipe is the type most widely used, crumb crusts are also popular. These are pie crusts prepared with the crumbs of graham crackers, chocolate or vanilla wafers, or gingersnaps, and create an especially delightful contrast of textures for pies with creamy fillings. Pies can be made with both a bottom and a top crust, a bottom crust only, and in some cases a top crust only. Crusts, both top and bottom, can be made either simple or elaborate, according to the baker’s preference.

Equipment Needs
Some of the basic equipment needed for making pies and tarts are: A smooth surface of at least 26 by 26 inches for rolling out the dough; a rolling pin either with handles (the most commonly used type in the United States) or the dowel type, which some experts believe provides the best control; three different-size mixing bowls; measuring cups and spoons for both dry and liquid ingredients; small and large wire whisks for blending custard fillings and beating egg whites; a dough scraper for lifting dough and cleaning work surfaces; a pastry blender for cutting butter or shortening into flour (when making dough by hand); kitchen scissors for trimming dough around the pie pan edges; a pastry wheel, either plain or fluted, for cutting lattice dough strips; a tart ring for ease of transfer of tart to serving plate; a baking sheet for tart rings or free-form tarts; a pastry brush for brushing glazes onto crust; a tart pan and tart ring for baking and unmolding tarts; and a ceramic or glass pie dish or a metal pie pan for baking pies. There are many wonderful cookbooks available in bookstores and in the public library, filled with clear, illustrated directions, and helpful hints. A general, all-purpose cookbook can be just as useful as a specialty cookbook, especially for the beginner.

A Creative Experience
Making homemade pies and tarts can be a delightfully creative experience for both the experienced baker and the novice. Not only will you have a satisfying feeling of personal accomplishment, you will have the even greater satisfaction of sharing your delicious creations with friends and family.

Or, Let Us Do the Baking
If you don’t want to heat up your kitchen this summer, we’re happy to do it for you! Liam Donohue, our new Juice Bar and Bakery Manager, will be leading the bakery team in summer pie and tart baking using delicious, juicy, in-season summer fruit. Look for selections including peaches, berries and cherries all summer long. And, in September he’ll be adding creations made with local pears and apples. Delicious!
Sources: Williams-Sonoma Kitchen Library: Pies & Tarts, Country Living: Country Baker Pies & Tarts, Martha Stewart’s Pies & Tarts, Joy of Cooking: All About Pies & Tarts, Linda Stradley’s website: www.whatscookingamerica.net.