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2004
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Producer
Profile:
Harmony Valley Farm
Harmony In The Valley
and Down On The Farm
Lynn Olson
Member Services Manager
Deep in the heart of Wisconsin’s most challenging land, Linda Halley
and Richard de Wilde, owners of Harmony Valley Farms, have spent the last
30 years tweaking each valley and creek-side acre of their 200-plus acre
organic farmland. Wisconsin’s Vernon County, with its meandering
hills and valleys, presents a special set of natural barriers to farming.
Good land management becomes the difference between farming for a while
and farming indefinitely.
Linda and Richard’s vegetables are grown on the land along Spring
Creek and the Bad Axe River where the landscape rises around them like
a bowl. That specific area has been a focus for agricultural activists
since the early 1900s when Aldo Leopold observed and reported the debilitating
effects of erosion after farm owners began clear-cutting their properties
to create more cropland. By the 1930s the National Resource Conservation
Service (NRCS) had been assigned to develop individual plans for over
half of the area’s 800 farms to address critical erosion in the
area.
NRCS Plans
Original plans developed by the NRCS recommended a method of land use
based on the particular topography of each farm and soil. Steep slopes
with more than a 40% incline were to be to be left as woodlands. Fields
with inclines of up to 20-30% were pasture, and only slopes under 20%
were considered suitable for growing crops. Another part of the NRCS plan
called for crop terracing—alternating sections of long contoured
lines, barley then corn, or other crops. The practice of terracing is
still visible among the area’s farms and all of those early efforts
effectively succeeded in preserving the agricultural industry and beauty
of the area.
Any number of tree and native vegetation species grow on top of the steep
inclines surrounding Harmony Valley Farm. Beyond the trees, there are
500-700 downward feet of prime grazing land before everything flattens
out. The farm Richard and Linda are on never received an NRCS plan but
they practice a similar philosophy of using uplands for grazing horses,
goats and a small herd of Black Angus cattle.
It Takes Two, Baby (or Three, or Four)
Part of what makes Richard a successful farmer is his commitment to continued
learning. Linda says the fact that he’s self-taught contributes
greatly to their success. “He’s the kind of person who, like
a scientist, looks at his fields and says, ‘How can I do this better,’
every single day that he’s here,” she says.
Richard and Linda met at the Dane County Farmers’ Market and their
quality vegetables and berries have now been a staple there for over 25
years. Both share the experience of being raised on farms and earning
degrees in education. In addition, Richard’s engineering degree
has brought another priceless asset to their work together. Willy Street
Co-op shoppers have had seasonal access to their arugula, lettuce, carrots
and root vegetables on an ever-increasing level since the early 1990s.
Most famous are their fresh and delicate salad and sauté greens,
which are also available at select local restaurants during growing season.
Learning through Experimentation
With their two sons Adrian and Ari, Richard and Linda frequently open
their farm and home to visiting scholars, researchers, students and farmers
to learn and share new or tried-and-true organic growing methods. Evidence
of their experimentation and research is everywhere on the farm. Bats
and swooping barn swallows are encouraged to make their home on the farm
in order to eat up the mosquito population. A recently acquired flock
of young chickens will eventually control flies around the farm by eating
the larvae that grow in aging cow manure. Even at a glance, one can sense
that the couple has had time to carefully consider every facet of the
land. “We get into a pattern 'of this works great, let’s just
do this forever,'” Linda says, laughing, “and just when we’re
really happy with something he’ll [Richard] go, ‘you know,
we ought to try this instead.’ He keeps all of us on our toes.”
Economic Impacts
Harmony Valley Farms has continued to prosper over the years, but the
financial strain of farming in the area has sometimes forced other farmers
to make dire decisions. Linda says, “There are still some unconservationally-minded
practices going on. Loggers fly over all winter in their helicopters and
approach farmers who need to pay their taxes and say, ‘We’ll
give you $10,000, we’ll give you $20,000’ and it’s like
a gold mine, a gift from God, then they just let the loggers do their
thing.” And the realistic result is more and more topsoil in the
area’s streams affecting its habitat, especially the trout population.
The cost of running a farm that supplies retail and restaurant clients
as well as 400 CSA (community supported agriculture) shares would likely
startle someone starting out in the field, but Linda and Richard have
collected a lot of equipment over the years to aid them and their staff.
Linda summarized their shift to more mechanical labor, “Everything,
if you mound it together, is a big cost—the Bt [organic approved
pesticide], the remay [cloth crop cover], the cultivators, the tractors,
the plastic, the bins. There’s almost a remarkable, exhaustive expense
to running a farm, any farm. And the more efficient you try to run it,
you have to remember to make it more human-friendly. In other words, I
think hoes are not human-friendly, or rototillers. Pretty soon you’re
worn out, your back is worn out. So, if you can have a machine to help
you, it’s a big expense but use whatever you can to save your body.
It’s important to be good to yourself or you won’t be farming
in 20 years.”
Working the Land
In addition to their own 12-18 hour days, Linda and Richard employ a crew
of 20 people to handle the growing season’s work. Planting, weeding,
harvesting, washing, packing and shipping—all of these are handled
by the staff right there on the farm. Harmony Valley Farms provides healthy
opportunities to people in their community and have been growing steadily
year-by-year. As Linda says, “Not everybody wants to be bigger,
but we’re providing good housing and a good job to people. It’s
not bad to be big if you use your bigness for positive things.”
You Can Buy the Regulations You Want
Since October of 2002 when the United Stated Department of Agriculture
(USDA) and the National Organic Program (NOP) began controlling the legal
definition of organic, some rather shocking and disturbing events have
occurred, shaking up a nation of dedicated organic farmers. The advisory
board of organic farmers, advocates and experts who make up the National
Organic Standards Board (NOSB) have worked with the NOP since its inception
to provide information and advise the NOP on establishing the final organic
criteria. As someone who has been farming organically for over a quarter
of a century, Linda shared her impressions of the last two years, “It’s
like an ever-changing pattern and what has happened since the USDA has
taken control is that it has become a completely political process. You
can buy the regulations you want if you can get your congress[person]
to push it through by the dark of night…that’s already been
done. The first year it happened—less than twelve months after the
USDA passed this thing—they passed a law that says chicken producers,
if the chicken feed just costs a little too much, they didn’t need
organic feed. That is so far away from whatever organic ever was, and
people noticed. They raised a ruckus and they campaigned against it and
they overturned it. But in ten years, who’s going to raise the ruckus?
Will ‘organic’ be co-opted by commercial, large-scale, corporate
operations that understand how to tweak the laws? But if they (NOP) understand
the whole picture, of how this is important for our whole world, the economy,
environment, health of people, health of animals, everything, then we
might actually be able to maintain some integrity, but I think the integrity
is being eroded.
For More Information
Contact Harmony Valley Farm directly by calling (608) 483-2143. You can
also log on to their website for pictures, recipes and information: www.harmonyvalleyfarm.com.
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