By Ben Becker, Newsletter Writer
Upon the cosmic event known as the vernal equinox, the arrival of spring is official. In addition to the extraterrestrial movements which bring our hemisphere into closer proximity with the sun, the seasonal transformation can be seen closer to the ground. The lingering snow piles begin to flow through into the streams and streets to reveal the earth below. From within the long latent soil emerges the first sprouts and shoots which will come forth with the first bounty of the new year. As the first produce of the spring becomes available, many popular favorites will become available from local farmers. In addition, there will be a number of varieties and flavors that will only appear for a brief few weeks. Some of these fruits and vegetables may seem esoteric and mysterious, with culinary secrets yet to be revealed to the uninitiated. For those with the bravery and curiosity to embrace these unusual and often ephemeral ingredients, an often sweet and uniquely vernal experience awaits.
Artichokes
Among the most alien-looking produce items available is the elegant artichoke. Artichokes are best enjoyed in the spring because they are at peak seasonality during this time. Growing during the cooler days early in the year, artichokes will develop slowly, giving them a thick and meaty stem. While the ideal time to purchase artichokes is when they are available locally early in the year, artichokes are widely available throughout the year, with most artichokes sold in the United States being sourced from the perennially warm farms of California. While you will want to be sure to pick up artichokes during their peak season between March and May, but if you continue craving them there can sometimes be a secondary local crop in the fall. Most know the green exterior of the common globe artichoke, but you can check for alternative Italian varieties which will appear smaller with a purple tinge to enjoy deeper and sweet flavors.
Prepping and cooking the artichoke requires some delicacy to ensure its enjoyment. Carefully armored with its tough exterior, the artichoke contains a tender and delectable interior, known as its heart. Reaching this interior requires some thought. Before you are ready to dissect the artichoke, you will want to keep it refrigerated, wrapped loosely in a plastic bag. When storing, the artichoke should be kept dry to avoid the growth of mold and should be used within a week. When you begin prepping, pull and snap the dark outer leaves to reveal the pale yellow leaves within, which will prove tender. Slice off the top inch of the artichoke leaving the edible portions of the artichoke; the tender lower leaves, the stem, and the saucer-shaped base. The outside of the artichoke’s stem may be fibrous; what’s within should be sweet and succulent. If your artichoke recipe includes the stem you’ll want to peel off these stiff outer layers with a pairing knife, and then proceed to remove any dark green or tough leaves along the bottom and the sides of the base. Next, depending on the recipe, you either cut the artichoke in half lengthwise or leave it whole. Wrapping up, you will want to be sure to remove the inedible “choke” by opening the remaining tender leaves and scooping it out from the base with a spoon. Finally, rub the base with lemon juice and your artichoke is now ready to include in your chosen recipe.
Artichokes can be enjoyed both cooked and raw. One raw preparation could make for an excellent salad, in which you can enjoy the sweet flavor of the early artichokes by slicing the inner leaves thinly and mixing with mint, chives, parsley, Parmesan oil, and toasted almonds.
If this preparation is a little too light for your appetite, you can make a heartier version by mixing in complementary ingredients such as salami, farro, or other grains. For this preparation, you will want to poach the artichokes. For more flavor, add mint and basil, and flavor with white wine, kosher salt, and freshly ground black pepper. Many of us love to enjoy artichokes prepared in a dip for a tasty appetizer. A nice change of pace that will mirror this flavor can be found by grilling artichokes Grilled artichokes serving them with a Parmesan dip and lemons.
Asparagus
The arrival of locally grown asparagus is a hallmark of spring’s arrival. However, as fleeting as that perfect spring day, so too is the seasonality of asparagus. It only lasts approximately six weeks. For the best flavors, make sure to grab some from the crops grown right here in Wisconsin. Like other produce, you can depend on California’s perpetual warm weather to provide greater availability of these stalks throughout the year, augmented by imported crops as well.
When selecting asparagus, you don’t need to concern yourself about its size. Instead, look for crisp and juicy stalks rather than worrying about based on whether it is thick or thin. When it comes to asparagus, size doesn’t matter, because the plant produces thick, medium, or thin spears all at the same time regardless of the plant’s age and development. Instead, look for closed tips, and stalks with cut ends, while avoiding dried out or woody ends. Asparagus is again a spring vegetable that comes in many varieties and styles. Feel free to explore purple varieties in addition to green; while their flavors are about the same, the mixture of colors can add some excitement to your presentation. Once you have found the bunch you like best, wrap it loosely in a closed plastic bag in your refrigerator, but not for too long, as you will want to enjoy the asparagus as soon as possible, especially if it is to be eaten raw.
It may be surprising to know that asparagus requires very little preparation in order to make it edible. You will need to find that sweet spot on your asparagus bundle and remove the lower portion of the stalks which are fibrous and unappetizing. To identify this prime spot for removal, bend one stalk and let it snap naturally at the start of the brittle end of the stalk. You don’t need to do this with each stalk, but instead can simply line up the rest of the bunch and cut them in alignment with the pilot stalk.
Whatever your asparagus preparation method asparagus may be, one important rule is to never overcook it as its texture will become mushy. This error is easy to avoid if you are willing to try asparagus raw. To do so, begin by slicing the stalks into thins sections cut at an angle. The sweet and juicy texture you’ll find in these slices makes them a great base for a salad. Try mixing these thinly sliced pieces with breadcrumbs, mint, and walnut and then dressing your mix with lemon juice, salt, black pepper, and chile flakes.
A salad of asparagus might be too fresh or adventurous for your palette, but there are still many ways to enjoy these stalks cooked. To keep things simple, you only need to grill asparagus or toss them in your stovetop pan with some oil, salt, and pepper. If you are craving asparagus as more of an accent within a heartier dish, add your cooked and cut stalks to a frittata, and mix in some other seasonal vegetables such as green garlic or spring onions along with some crumbled feta cheese, or if you are not afraid to do some baking, try a similar mix within a quiche. Another nice breakfast can include a mix of asparagus with garlic, chives, pea shoots, and some shredded romano cheese, all topped with a fried egg or two. A vignole can also be a nice spring dish to include your asparagus in. For this verdant dish, stew your stalks along with other seasonal greens such as sugar snaps, English peas, and spring onions. Once the shade of your mix dulls down from bright green, mix in with a short pasta of your choice.
Lettuces and spring greens
An enjoyable aspect of many local produce items which appear seasonally this time of year is that they make for a light but enjoyable dining and can often be put together with little cooking. Best exemplified by these qualities are of course local lettuces and spring greens. Among the first of these tender leaves to arrive is arugula. This cool-weather crop, also known as rocket or roquette, is perfect for those who enjoy a slightly sharp bitterness. In fact, arugula has worldwide prestige as a harbinger of spring, especially in Turkey. While you may enjoy arugula on its own it can also be mixed in with other spring greens for a rich salad.
One great, although more common green for this method is baby spinach. When young and in small leaves, spinach is much more tender and has a milder flavor, and you can enjoy its lighter texture. Greens like these are not only an ideal way to work nutrients such as iron into your salad, but can also be enjoyed cooked. Try sautéing these dark greens to soften them up and add a topping of hard or blue cheese such as gorgonzola; this preparation is excellent for serving with meat.
As spring practically demands the consumption of salads, it is high time to explore the crispness of local lettuce. Common year-round is the romaine variety, favored by Caesar salad enthusiasts for its great crunch. However, you’ll also find some other tender varieties which will boast both color and flavor to pull you out of any lingering winter ennui. This writer is quite partial to buttercrunch lettuce, which is less commonplace than its cousins but when you can get it, it promises a combination of not only great flavor but a fantastic crunch for texture. This and other varieties of butter lettuce will lend a great taste to a dish of soft-boiled eggs, boiled new potatoes, and a dressing made from dijon mustard and vinaigrette.
To maximize the quality of these delicate forms of foliage, you will need to take care when storing your lettuce. Do you ever wonder about why the Co-op staff keeps lettuce and other veggies sprayed down in our Produce aisle? It not only hydrates these products but keeps the temperature low. This is especially important for lettuce and greens, as warm temps can cause your lettuce and greens to wilt, while high heat will cause lettuce to taste bitter. When you take them home, keep lettuce and greens wrapped in a towel and then stuff them into a plastic bag. Of course, if exposure to spring weather does wilt your greens, you can revive them by soaking in cold water and using a salad spinner to remove moisture.
Spring Onions, Ramps, and garlic scapes
Lettuce and greens are some of the less intimidating of spring’s vegetable bounty, but on the other end of the spectrum are some mysterious members of the allium genus. These include ramps, spring onions, and garlic scapes, which boast excellent flavors but can only be enjoyed at this time of year.
Spring onions are actually younger onions, but they include more than just the under-developed globes. At this stage, the tops have not yet dried and fallen off, but are still green and edible. Though they have some similarities, spring onions are not to be confused with scallions or green onions. These onions have a high sugar content which makes them excellent for grilling or other high heat preparations. When buying these onions, be prepared to eat them within the next few days and store them in the refrigerator to keep them at peak quality.
Another mysterious allium that will appear this time of year are ramps, but their season is very short, popping up in early spring, so you’ll need to move quickly. Spring onions, ramps, and also garlic scapes are all excellent when prepared on the grill. You might apply them directly to the grill, and remove the charred and blackened leaves, leaving only the resulting tender and thick shoots that will be juicy and sweet. These sweet and juicy flavors make ramps great for serving on grilled bread. Just slice your ramps thin, sauté with chile flakes until you can smell the fragrant aroma, then spread on top of grilled or toasted bread with a cream cheese spread or whipped ricotta. Alternately, you can make a sandwich with ramps or grilled onion on grilled or toasted bread with some slices of salami.
Morel mushrooms
Just as these allium varieties are ephemeral, many look forward to spring to get their hands on the hallowed morel mushroom during its short window of availability. In addition to your favorite morel recipes, try adding mushroom butter to your repertoire. This preparation can employ the stems, trimmings, and gills of the mushroom while leaving the more appetizing heads intact. These leftover parts can also be cooked down into gravy by using a simple roux.
Covering every spring varietal and the novel approaches their preparation could prove a delightful but never-ending enterprise. From the sweet medley of apricots and berries which may combine with the sharpness of rhubarb in your favorite pastry, to the enjoyment of fresh snacks such as snap peas, the possibilities are myriad. Don’t be afraid to check out other dark leafy delicacies such as chard and dandelion greens either. No matter what your culinary preferences tend to, the arrival of this season’s local bounty is sure to bring something new and to your liking.