by Ben Becker, Newsletter Writer
As the impact of COVID-19 continues, its disruption of our regular social habits continues to reshape our lifestyles. Summertime is particularly affected in this regard, as the pandemic has vastly reduced opportunities for vacation travel. Similarly, those events which we have long looked forward to such as concerts or festivals, including the Willy Street Co-op’s own Annual Meeting & Party, have become victim to social distancing practices necessary to mitigating COVID-19. As leisure and recreation take such a major hit, the longing to indulge in the ambiance and warmth of local eateries and watering holes becomes all the more profound. Yet, with bars and restaurants operating at minimum capacities, such opportunities to escape from the routine through culinary exploration remain limited and beyond the bounds of prudence.
In order to reduce an ever-growing reliance on take-out food, greater engagement with our creativity in the kitchen is often necessary. With the warmer weather, we also want to carry our enjoyment of cuisine outside as well, whether it be for picnicking, camping, or for a mid-day break from school or work. Taking on this tactic is not only valuable for recreation or spicing up your daily routine, but also helps to aid in social distancing and reduce contact with potential infection or health hazard, as it is recommended by the Center of Disease Control and Protection that we encourage visitors and house guests to bring their own food and drinks when you go to a social gathering or cookout.
Keep it fresh, Keep it Green
While we often think of those school lunches packed in a paper bag, packing our lunch or picnic presents an opportunity to reduce our resource consumption and waste, especially as we forego the packaging that comes along with picking up food at the drive-through or food cart. Classic examples of portable food containers include the ever-iconic lunch pail or that vintage A-Team lunch box you have tucked away.
Perhaps you would like to do some updating beyond your reliable Thermos container. An excellent way to dispense with plastic beverage containers is to pick up a Klean Kanteen at your local Willy Street Co-op store. These water bottles are sturdy and a great way to stay hydrated at mealtime or throughout the day. They also offer vacuum-seal varieties that provide hours of temperature control, making them great for cold drinks or hot coffee, and their larger sizes are great if you want to pack for the whole crew.
When trying to pack away your meals for the workday or for a road trip vacation, there are many places to look for inspiration so that you can avoid creating waste. In fact, while many cultures throughout the world have approached portable meals with disposable packaging such as a paper sandwich wrap, others have a long history of using more permanent packaging such as bento boxes or Tiffin carriers.
Oslo Breakfast
One international meal formula which epitomizes the idea of the balance and health is the Oslofrokosten or Oslo breakfast. While the idea of the school lunch is one we so readily take for granted today, what would become the Oslo Breakfast was born of a time when proper nutrition or the financial means to provide it were hardly a given. At the start of the 20th century, poverty among children in Norway and other parts of Europe was a common problem, and the resulting hunger in these children affected their ability to learn in school. Eventually, political and social movements led to the introduction of universal meal program in Norway, through which both children with and without means might receive sustenance during school hours.
Originally a hot meal heavy in fats and calories, the emergence of better nutrition knowledge and the desire to instill healthy habits in young people led to the development of a lighter form of the school meal thanks in large part to Carl Schiotz, the director of medical services in Oslo.
From Schiotz’s vision came the more balanced breakfast which included crispbread or kneippbrod, margarine, an apple, carrots or oranges, cheese or sausage, and milk. This strategic breakfast was intended to introduce more vitamins and minerals into the student’s diet, and it led to greater weight over the previous hot meal. The victory of this simple meal over the hot lunch was not only seen in Norway but also had an influence on meal programs across Scandinavia and Europe at-large.
While originating from the need for schools to provide a meal for the underprivileged, the Oslo Breakfast would eventually shift to being prepared at home and packed by parents for their young students. The appeal of simple, modest, yet nutrient-rich meals was not only limited to Norwegian children, however, and still today, the people of Norway carry on a similar tradition into their lunch hour.
matpakke
Tracing its roots to the Oslo Breakfast, the matpakke evolved into an integral part of Norwegian culture. Matpakke or packed lunch is an iconic, if humble, approach to a mid-day respite, and like the Oslo breakfast in that it reflects the tastes of a nation who once knew poverty, but that also had continued concern for efficiency despite transformative economic growth over the past century.
The Norwegian tradition of eschewing a hot lunch in favor of cold-packed one can be a valuable model in these times when the lunch hour lacks the freedom and myriad of options Americans generally enjoy. The tradition of matpakke trades excitement for efficiency, in that, it is always the same; it can be enjoyed within a very short break; and while commonly perceived as boring, removes any concern for additional gastronomic-based decision making. At its most basic, matpakke consists of brown bread, slices of cheese, or ‘brunot’ that is often made from cream and goat’s milk, or liver pate, eaten together as an open-faced sandwich. While traditional matpakke during a Norwegian lunch break is strict about quantities and the variety of fillings, more adventurous eaters often add mackerel in tomato sauce or cod from a tin or tube.
Smørrebrød
If the Norwegian approach to a sack lunch appears far too austere to consider appealing, you may prefer to take inspiration from another Scandinavian sandwich culture. Nearby Denmark boasts with patriotic pride their own take on the open-faced sandwich, which they call the Smørrebrød. There are some similarities between this Danish delicacy and Norway’s lunch staple; they both might consist of bread, cheese, and perhaps some kind of fish or other protein, and are served open-faced. However, despite the geographical proximity of the two nations, their entire approach to lunch couldn’t be more different, with the Danes preferring a far more decadent experience over the Norwegian’s penchant for efficiency.
Smørrebrød conventionally begins with a base of a fermented Danish rye bread tasting richly of malt and tangy sweetness. Next, a thin spread is applied, either of butter or goose fat, though the American palate might be inclined to employ mayonnaise, cheese, or even avocado at this stage. The sandwich may be as simple as these two ingredients, but it is in the following stages where smørrebrød demonstrates its versatility, and it is this receptiveness to innovation that truly gives the dish great value as it can absorb many of those items you are trying to use up in your fridge, whether its old pasta salad, an apple that is about to turn, or last night’s chicken. For the classic flavors of Denmark, Danes top their buttered rye bread with shrimp, pickled herring, and boiled eggs. More modern takes often incorporate produce of many kinds, which could include apples, plums, cherries, beets, fennel, or asparagus, all of which can be rotated based on the season. Danes often eat these sandwiches in courses with knife and fork, so be sure to pack some in your mess kit or picnic basket.
Boxed Lunches
Bento
If a packed lunch of sandwiches sounds too close to a played out peanut butter and jelly, you might want to search for inspiration outside of Europe, in favor of Asian cuisines. A great place to start is, of course, with Japan’s boxed lunch known as bento. While bento might be sometimes associated with a more luxurious dining experience of sushi, Bento’s long history as a means of packing a convenient meal should dispel any concerns about the inaccessibility of this long-standing staple. In fact, the origins of bento go back over 1,500 years, when these meals were packed into a design similar to that of a farmer’s seedbox and were used to carry convenient sustenance into the field by hunters, farmers, and warriors.
The bento box contains a multitude of compartments separating different dishes which could be fish, rice, or vegetables. Over the millennia, the use of bento spread and has taken on a variety of attributes in Japanese culture, ranging from their use in settings such as religious holidays, festivals, and gatherings to the more mundane everyday availability of these boxes at train stations. These versatile packages may contain a myriad of dishes, but always contain rice, which may be either plain or seasoned with soy sauce, black sesame, seaweed, or mixed with cooked meat or vegetables. Small amounts of other dishes are packed alongside this starchy centerpiece. These may include fried tempura, grilled fish, potato, or vegetable salad. Bento boxes may be filled with Japanese dishes such as boiled beans or simmered fish, Chinese foods like pepper steak and sweet and sour pork, or even western dishes such as stuffed cabbage or hamburger steak.
Dosirak
Across the sea of Japan, a similar tradition of packaged and portable food can be experienced throughout the southern section of the Korean peninsula. Dosirak is a very popular form of the packed meal which can be picked up in train stations in Seoul or Busan. Packed either together in a large container with or without compartments, or in smaller individual containers, Dosirak often consists of several dishes and usually contains bap or a Korean dish made from rice or other grains such as barley or millet combined with vegetables, seafood, or meat.
Dhabba
If you are looking for luncheon tradition from where East meets West, you may want to ditch your plastic lunch box in favor of a dhabba. The containers of all shapes all sizes are designed for the enjoyment of tiffin, a lunchtime tradition that has evolved from the intersection of British and Indian culture. The dhabba, or tiffin lunch box, are usually round metal containers stacked on top of each other with a tight-fitting lid, making for a perfectly sealed collection of dishes, perfect for carrying food to work or an outing. To observe the traditional fare, pack these containers with some afternoon tea, a light snack, or with Indian recipes such as spicy vegetables, cooked vegetables, some yogurt, bread, and maybe even some pickles for a respite that is worth looking forward to.
Whatever your new normal looks like, there’s no need to suffer from exhaustion over carryout or delivery. You can continue to challenge your creativity throughout the summer and fall by bringing an inspired dish made at home to your next potluck or marathon Zoom meeting. As you look for inspiration from the locally grown foods on your Co-op shelf or eCommerce page, you can combine seasonality and sustainability with the excitement of traditional and innovative approaches to a packaged meal.