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Natural & Organic Wines

by Dean Kallas, Grocery Category Manager

An interview with Amanda Zipperer, Sales Rep from Left Bank Wine Company

october 2022 winesHow can we as consumers make good choices when it comes to buying wine?

I have long appreciated knowing where my groceries come from. Being able to make decisions about where my food is grown, how it’s preserved, and where it travels from has become easier and easier through labels, but I’m often left thinking, what about the wine? Wine labels aren’t held to the same standards as food so I find it can be difficult to make healthy choices about wine in the same way I can about food. Let me help clear up some common questions we’ve had at Willy Street about wine, and suggest some tips for what you should look for when picking out your next bottle. 

What can you tell me about sulfites causing headaches?

Sulfites are a preservative that are both naturally occurring in the fermentation process and added to stabilize the wine. They are commonly found in cooked, processed and baked foods as well as juices, jams, and canned vegetables. Sulfites work by killing unwanted microbes, preventing oxidation, and preserving flavor which allows the wine to remain shelf stable and age. Many wines that contain sulfites have anywhere from 50-350ppm of sulfur in them whereas dried fruit can have up to 1000ppm. There is a common misconception that sulfites in wine give consumers a headache, however headaches aren’t a symptom of a sulfite reaction. People who are sensitive to sulfites actually develop symptoms of an allergic reaction including wheezing, hives, and rhinitis. If you are sensitive to sulfites, check your labels. Wine producers in the US and EU must mention the use of added sulfur in their wines if the total content exceeds 10 parts per million. If you’re trying to find wines that don’t give you a headache, time to look at other culprits like tannins or pesticides.

Do wineries follow sustainable, organic, or biodynamic farming practices?

Since wine arrives at our table from all over the world, there are dozens of certifications that one can come across when picking out a bottle. To help make sense of these, certifications fall into three broad categories: sustainable, organic, and biodynamic. 

Wines made from sustainable vineyards reduce the usage of pesticides and herbicides, reduce water usage, and increase biodiversity in the vineyards. 

Organic wines come from vineyards using sustainable practices, and additionally must be made with all organic ingredients, must be GMO-free, and sulfur must be limited to 150ppm. 

Biodynamic wines are sustainable, organic, and additionally follow holistic guidelines stemming from the belief of interconnectivity. Biodynamic farmers time their plantings and vineyard and soil maintenance with calendars based on the lunar cycle. Additionally, they are required to practice minimal intervention winemaking. 

Wines that have any of these certifications tend to be a bit more expensive due to the cost of the certification in addition to the increased cost of the practices themselves. The good thing is that you know the extra money is going towards supporting wineries making positive choices for the environment.

Are wines vegan?

Most of the wines that you find in the market are clear instead of cloudy. The way that winemakers achieve this is through the use of a fining agent. For many centuries, winemakers in Europe would add an egg white or two to their large barrels of wine. The egg white would bind to free proteins in the wine and fall to the bottom of the barrel, thus clarifying the finished product. Today we have many more ways to achieve the same result. Just be aware that there are many animal derived fining agents including egg white, milk products, gelatin, and isinglass that continue to be used to give wine a clear appearance. If you are vegan, be sure to look for wine specifically labeled as such, or search for wines that are unfined and unfiltered. 

What are natural wines?

Although the natural wine movement has become increasingly popular amongst independent growers, the philosophy behind these wines has stood the test of time. What is natural wine? These are wines that are typically produced by independent, small-scale producers. The grapes typically come from sustainable, organic, or biodynamic vineyards and are hand picked. The wine is then fermented with native yeasts that naturally exist on the grapes when they are picked. Many natural wine producers use minimal intervention and believe that great wines are made in the vineyard, not the winery. Some of these wines can be known for their yeasty, funky characteristics and cloudy appearance. A few of the more trendy natural wines include orange wines, and petillant naturels or “pet nats.” Orange wines are white wines that are made like a red wine, the juice remains in contact with the skins and the stems of the grapes imparting the orange color to the wine. Pet Nats are sparkling wines that finish fermenting in the bottle causing carbonation to build up adding bubbles to the wine. Something to keep in mind is that natural wines are more fragile than standard wines. This is due to them having fewer additives and a lower sulfite content. With that in mind, you should store them in a cool, dark place, drink them within a year, and buy them from your local retailer, instead of a wine club, to make sure they are handled appropriately as they make their way to your table.

Do you have any recommendations for my next bottle pick?

Absolutely! If you struggle with headaches, try a bottle from the organic wine section. You can find labels on the shelf that designate organic wines at any of the three Willy Street locations. Additionally, the North and West stores have a full section devoted solely to organic wines. I’d also recommend stepping outside of your comfort zone. It’s easy to buy the trendy labels that you see all over the place, but the more places you see a wine, the more likely it is to come from a huge conventional producer using lots of additives and pesticides. Try embracing wines coming from smaller producers or even just picking something you haven’t tried before. You’d be amazed at the quality you’ll find for a very reasonable price. 


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